Hedberg Landscape & Masonry Supplies is Minnesota's largest wholesale and retail supplier of landscape hardgoods, masonry products, water garden supplies and custom stone fabrication.

Landscape Installation Tips

Stone Walls

1. Take pallets apart and sort by thickness and shapes. (There may be waste when wall is completed.)

2. Decide on look of wall - ashlar pattern or random.

3. Dig a trench 3" wider on each side than the widest stone. Depth varies depending on wall height.

4. Fill trench with a minimum of 3"-4" of class V limestone base and compact with a hand tamper or a vibrating plate compacter (you can typically rent these at a neighborhood equipment rental company).

5. Bury the depth of 1-2 pieces of stone depending on wall heights and stone thickness (you can use a string line to make sure you are following a good line).

6. Level your first row of stone (a dead blow hammer is helpful for leveling).

7. Then continue your pattern while laying the stone with a setback of 1/2" per 3" of rise.

8. Backfill with granular material. 3/4" clear limestone for walls over 21/2 ft tall and either 3/4" clear limestone or coarse sand for walls less than 21/2 ft. tall. Pack or tamp your backfill as you go up.

9. Use landscape fabric between your drainable backfill and the soil you are retaining for walls when 3/4" clear limestone is used. For walls where sand is used for backfill, place landscape fabric between the back of your wall and the sand. Then tuck your fabric over the top of your drainable backfill and under your top coarse of stone.

NOTE: Grade to divert water away from the top of your wall.

NOTE: Moss or rockroses between stones add a nice touch.

ALWAYS call Gopher State One Call @ 651-454-0002 before digging.


Patio Steppers and Flagstone (Dry Laid)

1. Go through pallets to become familiar with your stone.

2. Decide if you're going to need an edge restraint or not for your area.

3. Excavate for minimum of 4" of class V (crushed limestone) compacted base, ONE inch of coarse sand, and the thickness of your stone.

NOTE: Compact base with either hand tamper or vibrating plate compacter. Compact in 2" lifts (or layers) so you are sure to get a solid compaction.

4. Your base must have the same slope or pitch you wish the surface of your patio to have. (Typically no less than 1/8" per sq. ft.)

5. When base is fully compacted lay your sand. 1" or less sand screeded with a 2x4 just ahead of the stones you are laying. Do not walk on sand.

NOTE: you can mix in or sprinkle granulated Diazion on sand for ant control.

6. Think about the look or pattern you wish before you start.

7. Lay stone tightly to minimize size of joints. You can use a dead blow hammer (which is weighted with sand) to level your steppers or flagging. (Due to the nature of natural stone your patio/walkway area will not be perfectly level.)

8. Use either coarse or washed sand or granite sand.

NOTE: You can mix your sand using 9 parts sand to 1 part Portland cement and granulated Diazion.

9. Fill the joints with the sand or sand mixture.

10. ALWAYS call Gopher State One Call @ 651-454-0002 before digging.


Stone Outcroppings

You want the area that your outcropping is going into to look natural not "man made". To achieve this look you want to bury the bottom portion into the surrounding earth, so it looks as though it's been uncovered. Placing plantings around it help to blend the area. You can also use outcroppings as rough steps or as a large wall stone. Be creative.

Stone Steps

1. Lay out project - figuring out how many steps you're going to need and how you'll lay them out.

2. Decide how the steps will be moved to the installation area. Excavate to depth necessary for base material.

3. Put down a bed of class V 4"-6" deep depending on soil type.

Compact in 2" lifts (or layers) with either a hand tamper or a vibrating plate compacter (you can typically rent these at a neighborhood equipment rental company) so you are sure to get a solid compaction.

4. Set 1st step at proper distance from house or wall.

5. Level side to side. For water runoff it is a good idea to have a very slight pitch from back to front with no greater of a slope than 1/8" per lineal ft.

6. When that step is set, lay another base area behind it for the next step to be placed on.

7. Set next step on top of the base step overlapping approximately 6".

Repeat step 5.

8. Continue on till all of your steps are set.

9. ALWAYS call Gopher State One Call @ 651-454-0002 before digging.


Stone Edging

1. Create your design; you can lay it out with a garden hose or spray paint.

2. Determine how deep you will need your trench to be. Keep in mind the depth of your edging material and the depth of any base material used.

3. Excavate trench removing any rocks or roots that may cause leveling problems.

4. You can either lay your edging straight into the trench with out a leveling material or on a 1" or less of coarse sand for leveling ease.

5. Place edging material into trench leveling side-to-side and front to back as best as you can. (Natural stone will typically not be perfectly level.)

6. Continue laying until all of your edging is installed. If cuts are necessary you can cut the stone edging with a skill saw or chop saw equipped with a concrete/natural stone diamond blade or you can score (make a shallow cut with saw) and snap the waste stone off with a chisel and hammer. You could rent a hydraulic splitter or a diamond blade (typically rent these at a neighborhood equipment rental company). Using the splitter or chisel and hammer will leave you with a more natural split face vs. the saws will leave you with a smooth finish.


Concrete Retaining Walls

NOTE: Most cities have a 4'maximum height code on retaining walls with out having your wall engineered. You can also terrace your wall to avoid engineering. You should have twice the distance of the height of your wall between terraces (Ex: for a 4' wall you need 8' between the two walls). If you can't go twice the distance back you may need reinforcement, such as geogrid, and you may need engineering.

1. Tools you will need: shovel, tape measure, hammer, chisel, carpenter's level, stakes, string line, safety glasses, gloves, pencil, square, a hand tamper or vibrating plate compacter (you can typically rent these at a neighborhood equipment rental company), and possibly a cut-off saw with a masonry blade.

2. Stake out your wall, you can use a garden hose to lay out curved areas.

3. Excavate your trench. The width of the trench should be twice the depth of the block you are using. (Ex. If your block is 8" deep, make your trench 16" wide.)

NOTE: If you are going to use one, two, three courses of block, make the trench deep enough to bury 1/2 of the first course. If you are going to use four or more courses of block, make the trench deep enough to bury the full first course.

1. Run the vibrating plate compacter over the soil in the trench (or hand tamp it). Then put down a bed of class V 4"-6" deep laying and compacting it in 2" lifts (or layers) depending on soil type.

2. Check base for levelness.

3. Now you're ready to lay your block. Depending on the block you are installing you may need to knock the bottom lip off with a hammer so that the block will lay flat (remember to ALWAYS wear eye protection when cutting and splitting block).

4. Position the wall units side-by-side on the prepared base and level in both directions using a carpenters level. You can use your string line to align the back edges of the first course.

5. Continue laying the additional courses by placing units in a staggered relationship to the course beneath it. (Pulling each unit forward till its front or back lip, depending on the type of unit, is securely in contact with the units below. There are a few types of block which have a center groove instead of a lip which you would just interlock as you stack them.)

6. Backfill each course with drainage aggregate, for example a clear crushed limestone 3/4" in size. The drainage aggregate should extend 12" behind the wall. Compact the drainage aggregate. (If you are using a hollow core block this is when you would fill those with the same material you are using for you backfill, Ex. 3/4" clear crushed limestone.)

NOTE: Organic soil or clay type soil is NOT recommended for backfill material.

7. You may need partial blocks. To split a block, use a hammer and chisel to score the block on all sides. Pound the chisel on the score line until the block splits. If the block does not split easily, you may need to use a circular saw with a masonry blade. (ALWAYS wear eye protection when cutting or splitting block.)



First you need to figure out the design and pattern you want to achieve.

1. The base of your patio is crucial to the stability and success of your patio. Use the bottom of a door, set of stairs, or another area to go off of for your finished slope and height. You should have no less than 1/8" a sq ft pitch away from your house, or to "channel" the runoff where you want it to go.

2. Remove sod in an area extending 8" beyond the boundaries of the patio.

3. Use a level, a 2x4, and stakes to determine the slope of the patio. Run stakes and a grid of string to mark the top of finished patio, then excavate 7 1/2" below string.

NOTE: Soil conditions vary greatly across the country. If after digging 7 1/2" below your strings, you still find pockets of loose dirt or black soil, remove it or it will eventually settle, creating a wavy patio.

4. Run the vibrating plate compacter over the soil in the excavated area (or hand tamp it). Then put down a bed of class V 4"-6" deep, depending on soil type, laying and compacting it in 2" lifts (or layers) with a vibrating plate compactor (you can typically rent these at a neighborhood equipment rental company). Make sure the base extends out into the 8" beyond the boundaries of the patio to accommodate the edging.

5. Edging is an absolute must for maintaining the integrity of your patio. (Without solid edging, your sand base and pavers will separate and drift apart as rain, frost, and foot traffic pound away.) We carry two types of edging for paving:

  • Snap Edge - ridged but can be "snapped" to do curves
  • Pave Edge - flexible (for curves), and ridged.

6. Lay the edging out and secure it together with the connecters that come with them. Then secure the edging into the compacted base with 10" or 12" spikes.

7. Sand provides the final base for your pavers. If this surface is uneven, the pavers on top will be too. Ideally, the sand should be 1" thick.


What you want is a firm, flat surface for laying pavers. Sand also locks the pavers in place. When you vibrate the pavers, by running the plate compactor over them, they'll bed themselves slightly into the sand. You need to smooth the sand out before laying the pavers. If your patio is under 10ft wide use a screed board with a 2" notch on the ends to ride along the edging to level sand (you can also use a 2x4 with a notch cut out). On larger patios level long lengths of 1" outer diameter pipe approx. 4' apart, then you screed (or smooth) your sand with a 2x4 if you don't want to purchase a screed. Gently pull the pipes out, fill the grooves in with sand and smooth out with a trowel.


1. Whichever method of screeding you use, roughly dump and level the sand over the compacted sub base (keeping your slight slope), then fill in low spaces and rake away excess sand as you drag your 2x4. Shuffle the screed lightly from side to side as you work. Remember you are not compacting the sand, just creating a firm, solid bed. Screed only as much sand as you can cover with pavers in one day.

2. Start along your house or other long straight edge and either start laying your pattern or the border (if you are using one). Just lay the pavers in place -don't bang on them or twist them. The little nubs on the sides of the pavers act as spacers. Try not to step or kneel on the edges of the patio/walkway until it has been compacted, otherwise these pavers can sink unevenly.

3. If you are laying a border, lay the interior pattern and the border avoiding cutting pavers till the end. Then it's time for you to start cutting in the necessary pieces to complete your patio/walkway. You will either be cutting pavers with a masonry tub/wet saw, or a skill saw or chop saw with a masonry blade on it (you can typically rent these at a neighborhood equipment rental company). Cut on the waste side of your cutting line to account for the width of the blade.

ALWAYS wear eye and ear protection while operating any cutting equipment.

4. When all your pavers are cut and in place, vibrate over the entire patio, starting at the outer edge and working inward in a circular motion. The compactor will lock the pavers into the sand and help even up the surface. Don't let the compacter sit in one place for too long, or pavers could settle unevenly or crack. If a paver happens to sink deeper than its neighbors, use a pair of screwdrivers to pry it up, sprinkle a little extra sand in the void, then replace the paver.

5. Spread coarse sand across the surface of your patio. If the sand is damp at all let it sit and dry out. When completely dry sweep it around the patio to fill the spaces between the pavers. It will take a few sweepings around the patio to fill all the spaces, and you may need to go back over it a couple days later to completely fill the gaps. The sand helps solidify the pavers, and also fills any spaces where dirt might enter to provide a mini-planting bed for weeds.

NOTE: There are a few choices of products for finishing your patio:

Surebond - Seals pavers and stabilizes the joint sand in one-step, inhibits moss and weeds from growing, prevents joint sand erosion and washout, won't trap efflorescence, and stain resist. It is also easy to apply.

Sandlock - Stabalizes joints, this is a granular material that is added to your DRY joint sand. You then sweep it into the joints, and after clearing off the surface area of the pavers you dampen the joints. The sand mixture then hardens up.

Paver Enhancer - This is a liquid that is applied to enhance the color of the pavers. When applying this product you need to let the pavers sit for at least a year or two to let the work its way out.


Wood mulch

Remove sod and excavate area if necessary. Place wood mulch 4"-6" deep, this will help to reduce the presence of weeds. The benefit of wood mulch is that as it decomposes it becomes compost for your soil; therefore there is no need to use a weed barrier.


** This information is provided in good faith. Hedberg Landscape Masonry & Supply is not liable for any damages related to your use or mis-use of the information. Use proper construction techniques and follow all safety instructions. Consult with a professional if needed.


Hedberg Landscape & Masonry Supplies provides landscape and masonry materials to retail homeowners and contractors in Minnesota and Western Wisconsin including Afton, Albertville, Andover, Anoka, Apple Valley, Arden Hills, Bayport, Big Lake, Blaine, Bloomington, Brooklyn Center, Brooklyn Park, Buffalo, Burnsville, Cambridge, Champlin, Chanhassen, Chaska, Circle Pines, Columbia Heights, Coon Rapids, Corcoran, Cottage Grove, Crystal, Deephaven, Delano, Eagan, East Bethel, Eden Prairie, Edina, Elk River, Elko New Market, Empire, Excelsior, Falcon Heights, Farmington, Forest Lake, Fridley, Golden Valley, Grant, Ham Lake, Hastings, Hopkins, Hudson, Hugo, Inver Grove Heights, Isanti, Lakeville, Jordan, Lino Lakes, Little Canada, Mahtomedi, Mankato, Maple Grove, Maple Plain, Maplewood, Mendota Heights, Minneapolis, Minnetonka, Minnetrista, Mound, Mounds View, New Brighton, New Hope, New Richmond, North Oaks, Northfield, Oakdale, Orono, Osceola, Otsego, Plymouth, Prescott, Prior Lake, Ramsey, Red Wing, Richfield, Richmond, River Falls, Robbinsdale, Rogers, Rosemount, Savage, Shakopee, Shoreview, Shorewood, South St. Paul, Spring Lake Park, St. Anthony, St. Cloud, St. Francis, St. Louis Park, St. Michael, St. Paul, Stillwater, Taylor Falls, Vadnais Heights, Victoria, Waconia, Wayzata, West St. Paul, White Bear Lake, Woodbury, Wyoming. Products and services provided include sand, gravel, black dirt (soil), fill material, dumping, recycled concrete, base material, compost, decorative rock, rip rap, glacial boulders, fieldstone, mulch, wood chips, woodchips, landscape poly, fabric, geogrid (Mirafi, SRW), geotextile (SRW), erosion control blanket, silt fencing, adhesives and sealers (Pave Tech, SRW, TK, Techniseal), polymeric sand, edging, edgers, concrete pavers (Holland, tumbled, permeable, Anchor, Belgard, Interlock, Silver Creek), clay pavers (Belden, Endicott, Pine Hall Pavers, Yankee Hill, Purington used recycled, Missouri used recycled), retaining wall block (Anchor, Interlock, Rockwood, Belgard), slabs, clay pots, outdoor fireplaces (Stone Age, , fire pits, fire rings, fire tables, brick ovens, outdoor kitchens, grills, grill islands (Necessories, Harmony, Belgard), stone benches, stone tables, curbing, manufactured boulders, drain tile, sump baskets, PVC, NDS, pop up emitters, water gardening supplies, water treatments, pond kits, waterfalls, fountains, aerators, bogs and golf putting greens. Landscape natural stone options for patios and walls including flagstone and steppers irregular (Aqua blue, carnelian granite, charcoal granite, Rockville granite, Chilton limestone, Fond du Lac limestone, hickory gray limestone, Minnesota Dolomite, Kasota stone, bay-de-noc, desert bronze, plum creek, Virginia slate, Minnesota Iron Range stone, Rocky Mountain Quartzite gold silver and charcoal, New York Bluestone, Pennsylvania Lilac, highland brown, sandy creek, Tennessee Crab, Black Hills rustic, caramel cream, carmel cream, chico buff, Colorado buff, Colorado red, Cortez, Minnesota gold, and mahogany), flagstone cut and patterned (Chilton, Fond du Lac, Indiana Limestone, New York bluestone, Carmel Creek, Sandy Creek, Tumbled marble, Rainforest Quartzite, Tropical porphyry, wallstone, retaining wall stone (granite, Blue River, Chilton, Desert Bronze, Fond du Lac, Hickory Gray, Minnesota Dolomite, Kasota Stone, Waukesha White, Virginia Slate, Bluestone, chestnut, glacier bay, highland brown, mission springs, sandy creek, aqua grantique), steps (Carnelian and charcoal granite, sawn fieldstone boulders, Blue River limestone, Cedar Ridge, Chilton, Desert bronze, Fond du Lac, Minnesota Dolomite, Kasota stone, Minnesota Iron Range Virginia slate, Bluestone, Chestnut, highland brown, Sandy Creek), boulders and decorative outcroppings, stone paver paving stones (granite, used and recycled granite, Lannon Templeton, Glacier Bay), stone border edging, pebbles (Jade and Mexican Beach), benches, basalt columns and bird baths, masonry full veneer and natural thin veneer, mortar, bagged cement, Buechel Stone, Halquist Stone, manufactured stone, Eldorado Stone, Cascade Stone, Landmark Stone, cobble, Glen Gery brick, cast stone, cultured stone, slabs, cutstone, stone cutting, stone fabrication, hearths and mantles, stucco supplies, angle iron, lath, rebar, moisture control, clay brick, concrete block, chimney flues, fireplace, fire brick, stone sealers and cleaners, stone delivery.